Myth & Mystery
One of the oldest mythological symbols is the serpent. A representation of good and evil, one of wisdom, life and eternity. The symbol is seen on ancient artifacts, religious objects, even on the caduceus, the symbol of modern medicine. Bvlgari created the Serpenti collection in hopes they could capture that essence, designing the seductive serpent to be coiled around a history of humanity. The aesthetic design that the brand crafted was not frightening in fact it was elegant, exquisite, and very unique.
In the 1940’s the brand introduced the innovative collection with a watch that coiled around the wrist like a snake or serpent, seductive and striking. The bracelets and watches, a variety of Tubogas styles were crafted in yellow gold, white gold and a combination, as well as some enamel ones that were accented with diamonds and gemstone. The craftsmanship for these designs required a high degree of detail and the species of the snakes inspiring the bracelets and watches were engraved in Italian on the tails, a whimsical touch but truly a remarkable detail. Some of the designs drew inspiration from fashion, bright yellow snakes with red scales, and white scales adorned the body of a bright turquoise serpent. There were gold scales that were crafted in a pentagon shape, and individually enameled and fired before being hand assembled with very tiny screws.
On the set of Celopatra, Elizabeth Taylor drew attention to the Bvlgari and the Serpenti collection as a specially made design adorned her wrist. The brand partnered with Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin to create the movements for these timepieces, and they continued creations together well into the 70’s. The brand worked on exclusive designs building the brand logo and the Tubogas serpent-style bracelet was so popular it was produced for over thirty years. While renditions were made through the years, yellow and white gold models, a steel version in the 90’s, the brand continued to reinvent the exciting collection with new designs to capture our hearts. The latest Serpenti Incantata incorporates the snake wrapped around the watch dial, every part of the iconic snake redesigned to be modern and contemporary.
This latest snake styles have been crafted in various sizes, designed with a Skeleton Tourbillon, and perfected with the brand high end jewelry expertise. One of the most beautiful creations is the Spiga, Bvlgari calls it a bold rock’n’roll iteration and crafted in black or white, very high tech ceramic, and of course adorned with a diamond-set gold bezel and the tip of the tail also done in dazzling gold. Never straying from the elegant jewelry roots that the brand is known for, each of the combinations of metals and jewels, diamonds, colored mother-of-pearl, turquoise, and other precious gems provides the glamour for each magnificent piece. The Serpenti Five-Coil Tubogas was designed with the base snake, then taking a dramatic design twist on the 35mm steel case. The timepiece is crafted with a 18-carat pink gold bezel, covered in diamonds, a black opaline dial, and multiple coils in the 18-carat pink gold and steel intertwined.
Slithering To The Future
The timeless appeal of the Serpanti collection no doubt means it will slither into the future of Bvlgari. New and exciting designs, symbolism and characteristics that continue to set the bar for the industry. The world-renown jewelry and watch designs that have been crafted through the years taking steel and wrapping it horizontally around a long flexible steel tube, then interlocking it to conceal the inner structure that bonds it without soldering. How the flexibility is designed is a mystery, but provides the sleek and sensual nature of the pieces, and the bounce that brings the snake to life. From watches, bracelets, rings, bags and more, the brand continues to bring these highly sought after collectors pieces to the table, and the serpent is always present in the design, ever evolving, always changing.
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