Breguet has proven to be a brand that consistently reinvents itself. Through innovation and forward momentum, forging ahead for over 240 years the brand success showcases the heritage and determination that they stand for. The latest horological masterpiece, the Marine Equation Marchante 5887 was developed from this passion of excellence. The foundation of this timepiece is the impressive complications, but know that this model also symbolizes a new generation of Marine timepieces.
The large platinum case is equipped with a perpetual calendar, with running equation of time, a 60-second tourbillon and a peripheral rotor automatic winding system. For anyone not familiar with the Equation of Time, it is basically the difference between mean solar time and apparent solar time. So in essence the difference between the time shown on a clock, and the time shown on a sundial. A clock reflects what we refer to as mean time, which in an average solar day is 24 hours. A sundial however shows apparent solar time, and this is based on the length of time it takes the sun to return to the same point in the sky. During the course of a year, that is not always 24 hours on a given day. Because of the Earth’s orbit and the inclination of the axis a solar day can be 14 minutes shorter on some days and 16 minutes longer than a mean solar day. The difference of course between these is the Equation of Time.
For the majority of people the Equation of Time has little to no meaning and has no major importance today, but it was critical in times of navigation. This timepiece that Breguet developed has a very complicated ‘running’ Equation of Time known as ‘marchant’, where the Equation hand runs along with the minute hand. The complexity is in the differential system of gears required to control the exact time for the minute hand the Equation hand runs. Impressive is an understatement when going into the detail of how this all works on this timepiece.
The arrangement of the dial on the Marine Equation Marchante 5887 is almost as impressive. Just a glance at the timepiece means you might overlook the details. The rose gold features a silvered dial made of gold, while the platinum model is set with a blue dial, also made of gold. The chapter ring for the hours is just slightly off center, allowing the aperture displaying the tourbillon and the Equation of Time cam projecting slightly outward at 5 o’clock. The off center dials has been a characteristic of Breguet’s own watch designs for many years, but a bit more pronounced on previous designs. The center of the dial is decorated with an ocean wave motif, added more for abstract design and composition than as actual art. The date is indicated by a retrograde hour hand, tipped with a anchor, and the equation of time hand tipped with a Sun design. The hour and minute hands are the only ones that have SuperLuminova.
The timepieces the brand produces are quite classic and elegant, and this timepiece while a bit more out of the box for them, has a beauty that stands alone. Available in rose gold and platinum the timepiece is magnificent at 43.9mm and about 11.5mm thick. While the case is quite unique compared to others in the collection and from the brand, it still features the Breguet’s signature fluted case band, but with lugs that are angular and very dynamic.
To the bottom right of the dial you can view the sapphire disc that enhances the window to the tourbillon within. The bridges are of course hand-engraved with the Royal Louis, a name that is given to the largest ship in the Royal French Navy. The technical achievements for this timepiece is noteworthy, and the styling while maybe not what traditionalists would inspire to, is very striking and will appeal to those looking for the Breguet quality and excellence in something a little more classy and sassy.