Rose gold is such a popular color from accent pieces to table runners, and jewelry, so it is no surprise that Zenith has crafted the new Chronomaster El Primero Open Gold Watch in rose gold. The brand has not wavered from their winning formula, the series with the tricolor dial, for over 50 years, until now, with the 18k rose gold case. However the brand is also not known for traditions even on this winning series. So stepping out with this latest timepiece shows how much of a risk the brand is willing to take.
This piece showcases the silver running seconds register at 9 o’clock, and then a portion of the surrounding area has been taken out to make way for a cutaway that provides a clear vision of the fast-moving escapement. Certainly there are many brands who have provided a view of the automatic movements but none quite with the impact of the El Primero 4061 caliber, that high-beat movement is breathtaking. Watching front or back the 5Hz oscillation brings the ultra-smooth sweeping seconds hand, and the escapement that moves back and forth at an energetic rate. The functionality of the 4061 is the same as it was when it debuted in 1969.
Some worried that the Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Open Gold Watch might not be accepted as masculine because of the rose hue. Many other brands have tried and failed with the high polish and pink hue that the color can manifest. In this case the brand rose is warmer, taking on a smokier tone, more of a somber hue, one that really compliments the silver and blue accents on the dial. Taking direction from many collectors, Zenith worked to update the timepiece subtle details, working with the dial text, date window placement and the overlap size on the sub-dial, which is certainly one of the most enhancing qualities.
The brand wanted to keep tradition of the series in quality and reliability, but push the envelope on the design side. The escapement window claims a great deal of space and has slid the Zenith wordmark to 1:00, which will take some adjustment for folks, but the 42mm case is comfortable and makes way for the open dial and beautiful brushed rose gold case. The final timepiece is exquisite, doing great justice to the classic nature of the El Primero Chronomaster, with just enough flair to make the wearer quite magnificent.