Many brands are starting to turn to in-house movements rather than using outsourced ones, the new Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Watch is a prime example of that action. The trend is certainly taking the horological world by storm, and is a remarkable advancement for everyone. This brand featured an in-house module with a base of Swiss ETA automatic in a previous collection, but this fully in-house movement is slated for the limited edition set.
Previously the brand reserved the in-house movements for their higher-end timepieces, like the tourbillons, minute repeaters, and high-complication pieces. The debut of this latest collection using the caliber UN-32, will be the first step in taking all movements in-house. The brand caliber UN-32 is also COSC Chronometer certified, and takes into account leap years so that the timepiece will not have to be adjusted till 2100.
The UN-32 used for the Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar movement can adjust calendar functions both forward and backwards, and there are very few watches in this arena that can achieve that. The timepiece dial also includes a GMT hand that features dedicated pushers on the left and right of the case. Folks find the feature very useful when traveling. The limited edition selections will be crafted in 18k red gold and platinum, 43mm wide cases and with only 250 pieces produced.
For anyone not familiar with this type timepiece, the design can vary in how information is indicated. Most will clearly show the date, month, and leap year, but there are many that also indicate the phase of the moon, but this particular piece does not. The unique feature here is the back and forth of the calendar, and the easy to read windows for date, day of the week, month and the year indicator at the bottom of the dial.
The Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar is quite elegant with the polished case and dials that really create a unison with the design and legibility. The texture of the dials is exquisite, and the hands are not the usual for the brand, they are considerably thinner, and skeletonized. The other feature for this piece that is somewhat unique is the “infinity” character that the brand places over the style label on the dial. Perhaps this will become a signature for the brand moving forward.
Choosing between a white or black guilloche dial will be the main decision for a collector, as well as color of the piece. But with impeccable mechanisms powering the choice, and the movement equipped with a rotor of 18k gold how could any decision be wrong. Shielded with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, water-resistant up to 30m, and finished with a comfortable leather strap you know you get precision and quality with a brand you can trust.
